The Poet of Kuehstry
The Mini-Interview Series
I have always admired entrepreneurs, especially if they have dedicated their career and resources, sticking to the business of their dreams through many challenges.
Gabriel of @gabdominic_kuehstry is a home-based kueh maker. Look at his social media photos and you will be charmed by the poetic depictions of his finely crafted cakes. Every time I do, I want to eat out of my iPhone. (Check out Orh Nee Kueh Ku with Gingko Nuts, pictured below.)
He came up to say hi to me at last July’s Peranakan Literary Festival.
Then he dropped by the next day, to hand-deliver freshly made Rempah Udang. It is a savoury kueh of steamed glutinous rice enclosing an aromatic spicy dried shrimp filling, sheathed in banana leaf that lends a fragrant whiff. Gabriel’s Rempah Udang is meticulously wrapped and exemplifies the level of detail he is gifted with, producing straight lines for his layered cakes and neat lacework for his pineapple tarts. As with all recipe testing and development, Gabriel’s creations have taken many tries, many months, some even years.
A personal business gives Gabriel flexibility and the luxury to choose what he sells and when. But it is not always easy to be a one-man show. Read on about the inspirations behind his business and how passion can translate to something so fulfilling for someone like Gabriel.
What inspired you with the idea of Gabdominic Kuehstry?
It was 2019, and I had just resigned from my job, six months after culinary school. There was a clause that forbade me to work for any direct or indirect competitor for six months. Since I had time on my hands, I made and shared kueh with family and friends, including my godmother and her family. They absolutely loved them and kept encouraging me to start selling. So in May 2019, by the grace of God, I had my first sale and the rest is history. I do believe that when God closes one door, He will open one that’s even better.
How did you come up with the NAME?
I am someone who loves puns and Wordplay. The name ‘Kuehstry’ is actually a play on the words "kueh" and "pastry." A little backstory on the name, it actually came to me back in 2017 when I was doing my BBA at the Culinary Institute of America in Singapore. I used to experiment with making different kueh and would share them with my course mates. One day, the name just popped into my head. I thought it was catchy and hoped that maybe, one day, I'd get to use it if I ever opened a kueh shop.
How do you choose what to sell? Where did you learn to make these kueh?
My first menu was made up of kueh that I personally enjoy eating, along with a few that are not so common. These are usually the kinds you’d find in a Peranakan household. I started with Kueh Ku (Glutinous Rice Cakes with Mung Bean Filling), Kueh Salat (Steamed Coconut Milk Custard on Glutinous Rice), Rempah Udang, Kueh Koswee (Steamed Rice and Gula Melaka Cakes with Grated Coconut), Kueh Dadar (Pandan Crepe Rolls with Grated Coconut and Gula Melaka), and Apom Berkuah (Rice Pancakes with Banana and Coconut Sauce). Later on, I had to remove Kueh Ku and Apom Berkuah to manage the growing number of orders. The other kueh you see on my Instagram usually would show up in my assorted boxes.
Except for Kueh Dadar, all the kuehs I make are self-taught. People sometimes tell me I’m talented, but I tell them that this talent is a gift from God, and I’m truly grateful for it. I guess being Peranakan helps, but no one in my family or extended family make kueh. My grandmother whom I was told made good kueh, passed on over 20 years ago. I have never learnt from or even tasted her kueh.
How long does it take you to develop and test a recipe before you start selling the product?
It really depends. Most of the time, it takes about three to four tries to perfect and refine a recipe. Sometimes, it also takes the right amount of courage and energy to actually make them. I mean, I always want to do right by my customers, and if I’m not feeling it, that can affect the final product, right? There are a couple of kueh that took me years to perfect, like Kueh Salat and Rempah Udang. You can find the full story behind these two on the pinned post on my Instagram page.
What are your other hobbies?
Singing! I’ll do it anytime, anywhere. though it’s usually behind closed doors since I’m still a bit shy about my voice. The vocal cords are the only muscle we really don’t need for our daily tasks, except for speaking, right? Anything from hymns and gospel, to Whitney Houston, Celine Dion, Sarah Brightman to Opera.
What has been your most fun kueh to make?
Funnily enough, I’d say Kueh Lapis Legit—not the Lapis Beras or Lapis Sagu, but Kueh Lapis Legit (Dutch-Indonesian Spiced Layer Cake). It’s honestly the most fun kueh to make! Layering each one, as many layers and thin as possible, then cutting it and seeing how evenly the layers turn out. And of course, peeling it layer by layer before eating it. Though, I’ll admit, for that last part, you really need nimble fingers!
What has been the most challenging part of your business?
Coming up with new ideas can be challenging, especially when you're doing everything on your own. It really forces you to allocate your time and energy wisely. And also you don’t know the minds of the people these days, trends in Singapore changes very fast. Today they want this, the next day they want that.
What compliment has motivated you the most?
The best compliment that one could ever receive is “it reminds me of my childhood”, “reminds me of my grandmother”. The ability to evoke nostalgia through my works is quite humbling.
What is your personal favourite Nonya dish?
The younger me would’ve said Ayam Buah Keluak, I mean I still do, but the older me would say Nasi Ulam. I appreciate the effort that goes into making it. Ambooi, once you have a spoonful, you’ll crave more. But you’d better be careful when eating it, like the song goes, “Tapi baik mo jaga, Nio lalu pun nanti tak sedar,” which translates to “Beware, otherwise you won’t even notice your mother-in-law when she walks in.” Well, I suppose that part doesn’t really apply to me since I’m still single.
What kueh or dish do you want to learn next?
Kueh Chang (Pork and Rice Dumplings Wrapped in Pandan Leaf). I’ve made it a couple of times but still can’t get it right. It doesn’t have that oomph you know.