The Hood Paris and Pearlyn Lee
The Mini-Interview Series
Bastille Day this year is going to be super busy! Euro, Copa and Wimbledon all in one day. For Pearlyn Lee, this will be yet another busy weekend in Paris at her kopitiam/bistro, The Hood.
And what about the Olympics? What a world stage.
Passionately promoting Singapore food in what might be deemed as the gastronomy temple of the world, Pearlyn dedicates hours to her business and has cultivated an appreciative community missing much of Singapore’s famous dishes.
For those of us Singaporeans who live beyond the Little Red Dot, this is how one of us transplants our favourites foods that we grew up with, sharing the authentic home culture that we were born into. Pearlyn shows how we can tick and thrive and spread the Singapore zing across the world.
How did you end up in Paris from Singapore?
I have been based between Paris and Geneva for 12 years, and prior to that, I was in Singapore. My professional journey took me from Singapore to Europe in the commodities sector, where I worked in Business Development and structured finance for emerging markets in Africa and Asia. However, my passion for food, culture, community building, and music inspired me to pursue a different path.
After the Bataclan terrorist attacks in Paris on November 13, 2015, I understood that life could be short, and this realisation triggered my shift from finance to hospitality to start doing something I love. The Hood Paris began as a passion project and has now turned into a well-loved Southeast Asian bistro and coffee shop.
What do you miss about growing up in Singapore?
I miss my family and close friends, the efficiency and comfort of everything working smoothly, and the support structures that are there, especially when starting something from scratch like The Hood Paris. I also miss the variety of noodle dishes, the diversity of food, and the tropical weather.
What made you decide to open The Hood?
The inspiration for The Hood came from an unforgettable experience during the Fête de la Musique in Geneva in 2012. I was playing the piano on the street for four hours until my fingers bled, surrounded by a diverse crowd singing Beatles songs together. This was during the escalation of the Syrian civil war and other global conflicts. Seeing people of all colours and languages united through music was incredibly moving.
I knew then that I wanted to create a space that embodied this spirit of unity and connection, where anyone could feel welcome. I envisioned a place connected by the universal languages of food and music, complemented by great coffee and natural wines.
In 2013, I began planning and visited numerous cafes in Paris for inspiration. I was surprised by the lack of good coffee and the absence of an Asian food scene. In 2014, I moved to Paris full-time and spent 1.5 years searching for the perfect location. Finally, in January 2016, I found the right space, and we opened The Hood in May 2016.
The Hood Paris is now a beloved establishment in the 11th arrondissement, known for its Singaporean signatures and Southeast Asian dishes made with French ingredients, all while creating a welcoming community space where food, music, and culture intersect.
What do you hope to achieve with it?
The goal is to connect people through food, bridge the gap of Southeast Asian cuisine in Europe, create a community around underrepresented cuisines and flavors, and provide a platform for chefs and creatives to be seen and heard. The original mission of The Hood Paris was to be a welcoming and accessible community space for everyone and we had to cast that aside during the pandemic period. We recently brought back community driven events in 2023 with Chope Chope and this year with Diversity Asian Apero!
What were the big challenges along the way?
One of the biggest challenges was convincing Parisians to appreciate and embrace Southeast Asian cuisine, which was relatively unknown and often misunderstood.
Many people were unfamiliar with dishes like Chicken Rice and Kaya
Toast. They often mistook kaya for matcha or pistachio, and assumed all our dishes were overly spicy, and do not appreciate the use of quality ingredient (Asian food is Asian food, it has to be cheap).
To overcome this, we had to put in a lot of effort to educate our customers.
We gave away free samples of Kaya and Teh Tarik, created content to teach people how to eat dishes like Nasi Lemak and Chicken Rice, and held tasting events and behind the scenes (making the sambal from scratch).
Marketing was another challenge.
We did most of our marketing organically, relying on word-of-mouth in the community. The Singaporean community were not easy to please (though we took every feedback at the beginning ), and the French showed little interest despite quality ingredient and a chef-led approach at the start. There was a lack of awareness and appreciation for Southeast Asian flavours in Paris, unlike in cities like London, San Francisco, and New York, which have larger Asian communities and more established Asian food scenes.
The turning point came when a Estelle Paynay (Telerama sortir) who visited Singapore during the World 50 Best restaurant awards, and a few Paris-based American journalists took notice and provided us with much-needed publicity (David Lebovitz, Lindsey Tramuta, Wendy-Lyn), as well as Claudia from Nodietclub (who could not stop raving about our house made sambal and kaya). Their support helped us gain visibility and attract a wider audience.
How have you observed Parisians’ acceptance of Singaporean food?
I've seen a noticeable change in how Parisians view and enjoy Singaporean food. Initially, there was some hesitation, as many people weren't familiar with the flavours and ingredients. But that's changed a lot recently.
One big factor is the new wave of second-generation Asians in Paris. They're more connected to their roots and have helped introduce authentic Asian flavours to their friends and the broader community. Social media has also been a game-changer.
In 2021, the cuisine at The Hood Paris got its first boost with the Singapore Food Festival, supported by the Singapore Tourism Board (STB). This event brought a lot of attention to The Hood, and many people who were already familiar with Singaporean food came to try our dishes like Chicken Rice and Nasi Ulam. It was a great way to bridge the gap and introduce our food to more locals.
In 2023, we launched Chope Chope with help from the Singapore Global Network (SGN), Singapore Airlines, and Airbnb. This platform allowed us to spotlight the diversity of Southeast Asian cuisine even more.
Overall, Parisians have become much more open-minded and enthusiastic about Singaporean food (though more so with Indonesian and Malaysian food than Singapore). We believe the ongoing education will have to be done jointly within the communities in Paris (which has been thoroughly supportive).
To further build on the momentum, we’re excited to take Chope Chope to the next level from September to November 2024, focusing on Peranakan cuisine, Malay food heritage, and dishes like Ipoh Hor Fun - this year’s Chope Chope will spotlight Damien (Rempapa), Pasir Panjang Boy and Madam Key.. (you’re the first to hear it).
Describe a non-touristy fun day for yourself in Paris.
A non-touristy fun day involves going to the park to read, soaking in the sunshine when Paris is sunny, having coffee or wine on a terrace while people-watching, and taking walks by the Seine, checking out a favourite or new restaurant openings to enjoy the best of produce France has to offer .
What are your favourite parts of France?
I love being anywhere by the sea with abundant seafood (Sete), near quiet lakes (Lac du Salagou) in the South, and in little towns surrounded by local farms with amazing produce.
Recommend a book, TV show or movie to understand France better.
"The New Parisienne" by Lindsey Tramuta is a great book to understand current Paris and pioneering trends.
“Drinking French” by David Lebovitz
The TV show "Dix Pour Cent" provides an insightful view of local life in Paris and the entertainment industry.
Name 3 things off the hidden path for visitors to Paris.
Paris 13th - Follow Aurore Ng for insights into the neighbourhood’s best eats and her childhood memories.
Canal Saint Martin to Belleville - One of my favorite neighbourhoods with wine bars and sunny day walks by the canal.
Paris 11th - Known as "11th Heaven" for food lovers, this neighbourhood is home to The Hood and offers a real Paris experience, well connected to shopping, opera, and train stations.
What do you prefer - Beach or Mountain?
I used to love the mountains, but these days, with the amount of work I juggle, I prefer being by the beach and enjoying the sun…
Who would you invite to The Hood for dinner? Marie Antoinette, Napoleon, Paul Bocuse, Coco Chanel or Charles de Gaulle?
Coco Chanel. At our second sister brand, Nonette bánh mì & donuts, we’ve recently tried to elevate our bánh mì, making it more fashionable and elevating its status from “Asian cheap eats” , and who better to consult on fashion and branding than Coco Chanel? She revolutionized fashion with her timeless designs, making high fashion accessible and stylish. Similarly, we’re trying to take Asian street food at The Hood Paris and Nonette , often stereotyped as cheap eats, and present it in a way that highlights the craft, quality ingredients, and the deep flavours in Asian cooking.
Benzema or Mbappe?
Mbappe for his talent and potential.
If you could ask Pierre Herme to create a Singapore macaron for The Hood, what would it be?
When we launched sweet-salty desserts featuring unique flavors like durian and pork floss-mayo in separate offerings in our donuts/beignets at Nonette, we encountered plenty of skepticism from the French about the combination of sweet and salty in desserts. (One of them told us it was too weird to be included in the press kit, we are better off placing as donuts for Mardi Gras. )
Yet, sweet-salty combinations like salted caramel and chocolates have always been universally loved.
I would ask Pierre Hermé to create a macaron that captures the essence of Singaporean flavors in a , sweet-salty balance.
What aboutt Hae Bee Hiam (Ebi Hiam from Pasir Panjang Boy) with Pineapple Tart Jam filling?
Or Salted Egg yolk with Coconut?
Soy Sauce Caramel with Ginger?
Laksa and Coconut ?